A Moment In Time

"I can do this", I said to myself as I went white...........

 Suddenly my heart started to beat ten times faster..............

 I went stiff and froze as we waited for the right wave. "Its now or never", I mumbled. I closed my eyes and then WHOOSH! He let me go as the wave swept me away trapping me underwater. It felt as bumpy as driving on gravel. I felt way more relaxed as I hopped off the board that I wanted to do it again!!!!

I went out to do it again and then out of the blue the waves began to rise making them massive!!! I shivered in fear desperately telling myself to pull it together. A chill quivered all over my body as we lined up a gigantic wave. I was thinking after the nervous start I would just feel good again but this time the wave didn't sweep me straight away it thumped right down onto me. I did a panic and desperately tried escaping but as soon as I got out from under the wave I ran as fast as I could back onto the beach!!!!!!!!!!The others started laughing so hard they all got swept onto the sand! "Ha" I quietly said to myself.